crazy customizing and creativity questions and discussion

[Onslaught Six]

Can't help you there--don't know enough about the figures. You might look into using painter's tape to tape off the chrome areas and prevent them from getting paint on them, though. Just be super careful and make sure there's like 2 layers so it doesn't leak out. I've done his occasionally with GI Joes whose pants I wanted to paint separate from a shirt, or something.

[Shockwave]

Sorry. After T-Mobile made me down-grade to their "new and improved" operating system a few years ago, it became harder to send email from my phone. Eventually, I dropped the whole data plan because it was just not worth it.

Anyway, I picked up an extra legends class Bluestreak which I plan to recast into the diaclone model.

Diaclone colours Bluestreak is the textbook example of "stupidly obvious recolour that does not happen". I almost did not bother with it myself because I expected Hasbro to eventually get to it.

Here is a challenge for ya: Cast the figure in clear/blue plastic. The silver and blue detailing would be easy enough for most fans to paint on themselves. But, clear base-plastic would be something "more" to work with, allowing for clearly different windows and headlights.


Dom
-should probably invest in a digital camera and cabling....

This weekend I started recasting some of the RTS/GDO legends figures. First up is Thundercracker. I'll be making 4 characters off of this: Skywarp, Ghost Starscream, Sunstorm and Acid Storm.

After that will be Bluestreak. As suggested I will be molding the parts with car windows in clear blue and the rest in appropriate colors. I will likely be making about 4 figures off of this as well: Diaclone Bluestreak, Smokescreen, "Legends Barricade", and Bloodstreak (similar to Diaclone Bluestreak, but with red instead of blue).

I have also completely disassembled the Classics Prowl mold for the above named characters and am still working on the classics Seeker mold. It's almost completely taken apart except for the chest and nosecone. For some reason the pins just will not come out of those.

In addition to all of this, I am currently recasting the GDO Legends weapons and even creating an add on bit for Trailbreaker/Hoist so that they can have the two missiles behind them like on the G1 version. This will be my first foray into 100% original parts but so far I am optimistic. If this works well I may go so far as to create a custom trailer/armor set for Legends Prime to become Ultra Magnus. And if THAT goes well, I might make one to turn "Motorbreath" into Menasor. The trouble there would be figuring out which Legends figures to use as the Stunticon limbs. Bluestreak could be used for Wildrider, Jazz could work for Dead End, the Rodimus mold from a few years ago could work for Breakdown but Drag Strip would be the problem.

EDIT: Oh yeah, I disassembled Generations Red Alert as well. I'll finally be getting to recasting these in other colors. Out of this I expect: G1 colored Breakdown, Clampdown, Deep Cover, Tigertrack, G2 Sideswipe, Dead End.

[Dominic]

I dunno if I would make that Breakdown, if only because there is going to be an official Breakdown in those colours coming out.

You might want to consider making the purple Decepticon troopers as well. That would be a good way to sell multiple figures from the same mould.


How did you remove the pins and rivets?

I am looking forward to those extra/custom weapon bits....


Dom
-still needs to send out that package. (sorry)

[Shockwave]

True, but that Breakdown is going to cost more than budget allows for something I have the materials make in house (and in better colors).

The pins with heads on them were removed using the heat method. Touching a soldering iron to it for about and half minute heats the pin enough to be removed easily without damaging the plastic. The ones without heads were removed using the tried and true hammer-the-shit-out-of-it method. Deceptitroopers is something I hadn't considered, but that is a good idea. Autotroopers might not be a bad idea either, especially since there's precedent for them being police vehicles. Might alter the head mold a bit. Give them faceplates, remove the horns...

[Dominic]

Maybe use a head from Jazz or (if you are feeling really ambitious) Beachcomber?


Dom
-really wants Autotroopers.

[Shockwave]

There's a deluxe Beachcomber? Jazz could work, but I'd want something a little more custom. And more accurately based on the Autotroopers from the Botcon set a couple years ago. Actually, come to think of it, using the Classics Seekers mold for Deceptitroopers (aerial drones) wouldn't be a bad idea either. Maybe alter the head for that too. Faceplate, Jazzesque visor... That could yield a lot of versatility.

EDIT: Really wishing there was a legends Lambo mold.

[Ursus mellifera]

Hey guys. I ignored JT's sound advice, and now I own FoC Bruticus. I want to repaint him, but I have no idea how to disassemble a TF aside from the screws. Is there some way I to remove the rivets so that they can be put back in after I've painted the pieces?

Thanks.

[Tigermegatron]

Hey guys. I ignored JT's sound advice, and now I own FoC Bruticus. I want to repaint him, but I have no idea how to disassemble a TF aside from the screws. Is there some way I to remove the rivets so that they can be put back in after I've painted the pieces?

Thanks.

I'd suggest just waiting for the inevitable 1985 G-1 recolor for FOC Bruticus. Hasbro or Takara is bound to do this at some point in 2013 or 2014. Thus far the FOC Combaticons molds have received 4 color variations & I don't see this stopping.

At any rate SDCC FOC Bruticus has Two combaticons that are in their 1985 G-1 colors,Which are Swindle & Brawl. All that's needed is for Onslaught,Vortex & Blast off to get their 1985 colors.

[Shockwave]

Hey guys. I ignored JT's sound advice, and now I own FoC Bruticus. I want to repaint him, but I have no idea how to disassemble a TF aside from the screws. Is there some way I to remove the rivets so that they can be put back in after I've painted the pieces?

Thanks.

And now for an answer to the actual question: Yes. For the pins with heads on them, use a soldering iron to heat it up until it pops out. You can do this by touching the heated iron to the head of the pin for about 30-45 seconds. For pins without heads the only real way to get those out is the old method of grab a hammer and give it hell. I was actually able to 100% disassemble both the Classics lambo and the Prowl/Bluestreak/Smokescreen molds.

[Ursus mellifera]

Thanks a bunch! I'll have to look up how to hammer the pins out without dedtroying the plastic around it.